SOLD Converted Van Spacious

1986 GMC Vandura G-3500 cube van converted to a camper with a spacious feel. You can stand up in the van and walk around.

Replaced engine with 43,000 miles.

Maximum exterior dimensions of the van in inches
Front to back: 236
Side to side: 100
Road to top of roof: 103

Well insulated.

Pleasant living space with attractive real wood elements in the decor.

One full-size bed with additional fold-down, single, upper bunk.

Fold-down table with collapsible, padded bench.

Cooler, propane stove top, 30-gal water tank, CD player with speakers.

Lots of closet and drawer space and travel-proof secure racks for dishes and containers.

Conveniently located lights.

Originally a maintenance vehicle at Appalachian State University in North Carolina, this van has been converted to a camper with many convenient, attractive, and well-thought-out features.

Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPv3zBbxycE

Detailed technical info appears below under "Additional Features."

Feel free to email any and all questions so you are fully informed. We are happy to tell you everything we know.

The van is sold AS IS.

Please note that there is no bathroom or air conditioning anywhere in the van. There is heat in the front cabin, but not in the back living area. The owners have been happy and comfortable, but some folks might need these things.

The van runs fine, is clean, comfortable, and ready to take you on your next trip. But with a little attention it could be even better. Here are some things that could be improved:

The engine runs fine, but the van shakes a little when getting up to speed. After that the drive is smooth. It is probably a wheel-alignment issue.
The gas mileage is about 10 mpg. It's possible this could be improved with the attention of a good mechanic.
Some insulation under the hood needs to be replaced.
The other day after a driving rain, a little water leaked onto the floor in the front cabin (not the back living area). This has never happened before, and we haven't had time to investigate. So far we suspect the seal between the cabin and box needs reinforcement.

So that's some basic info about the van. The original owner did an incredible job on the conversion. It's really beautiful with all kinds of little touches to make your next road trip easy, convenient, and enjoyable.

Payment method: cash or cashier's check.

Let us know if you're interested!

OPERATION MANUAL FOR THE VAN

Most live-in vans have everything built into them except space. So when people stop somewhere the first thing they do is pull out the table and chairs so they can get outside. This van was designed to include the feeling of space on in the inside and so avoid that claustrophobic feeling.

Besides many unique touches the van also features the following:
• a robust household electrical supply separate from the engine electrics delivering power to the many lights, stereo, water pump and inverter suppling 110volt mains power;
• a high-pressure water system with a uniquely flexible delivery method;
• a dual gas-bottle system supplies the highly efficient kitchen stove and the chest type refrigerator;
• a number of built-in security devices prevent unauthorized use of the vehicle and
• special security compartments offer safekeeping for cash and other valuables.

INDEX
1. Household Electrical System:
1.1 Power Input
1.1.1 To Check Cooling Fan
1.1.2 To Replace Cooling Fan
1.1.3 To Check Charging Amps
1.1.4 Battery Isolator Switch
1.2 Power Supply
1.2.1 Battery Fluid Level
1.2.2 Compartment Ventilation Filter
1.3 Fuses
1.4 Inverter
1.5 External 110volt supply
1.6 12volt Sockets
1.7 Battery Charger
2. Household Water Supply
2.1 Water Storage Tank
2.1.1 Removing Water Tank
2.2 Water Pump
2.3 Accumulator
2.4 Water Delivery
2.5 Kitchen Sink
2.6 Hose reel
3. House Sound System
3.1 Powering Off
3.2 Operating Manual
3.3 Theft Deterrent
4. Security Compartments
4.1 The Wedge
4.2 The Safe
5. The Table
5.1 Folding Up
5.2 Removing
5.3 Hinge Care
5.4 Locking the Support Leg
6. Upper Bunk
6.1 Fully Down
6.2 Partially Up
6.3 Fully Up
7. Kitchen Stove
7.1 Cleaning
7.2 Stove Top Cover
7.3 Propane Access
7.4 Safety Precaution
8. Drinking Water:
8.1 Storage
8.2 Dispensing
9. Chest Refrigerator
9.1 Power Supply
9.1.1 Propane
9.1.2 110volt Power
9.1.3 12volt Power
9.2 Refrigerator Platform
9.3 Exhaust Fan
10. Roof Hatch
11. Immobilizing Security Systems
11.1 Battery Isolator Switch
11.2 Fuel Cut-off Switch
11.3 Cabin Door
11.4 Window shutters
AND VERY IMPORTANT!
15. What to Remember Before Driving
15.1 Side Door Step
15.2 Drawer Latches
15.3 Table Light
15.4 Bench
15.5 Loose Items
Small added note

1. Household Electrical System:
1.1 Power Input: A very heavy gauge cable supplies the power from the engine alternator to the automatic battery selector located inside the front left clothes hanging closet. The selector (or isolator) automatically selects which battery bank to charge: household or engine. The selector is mounted inside the front of the closet on the lower right and is encased in a small duct to carry fan-supplied air over the cooling fins. When the household batteries have been depleted the selector may need to handle a current as high as 90amps so it is advisable to occasionally check that the cooling fan is operating and free of hanging clothes.
1.1.1 To Check Cooling Fan: Start the engine since the fan power supply comes directly from the alternator so there is no need for switching on or off. With the engine running open the closet and determine there is air moving out of the top of the fan duct.
1.1.2 To Replace Cooling Fan: If necessary there is a replacement fan in the compartment under the bed accessible through the back doors. To replace the fan undo the two screws on the side of the isolator fan duct. It can then be moved up and out of the screw slots holding it on the inside. The isolator can now be accessed to remove and replace the fan.
1.1.3 To Check Charging Amps: With the engine running check the amp meter built-in to the front of the same closet. If the household batteries are low the charging rate could be as high as 90amps.
1.1.4 Battery Isolator Switch: Also built in to the front of this closet on the right hand side is the battery isolator switch. Should you feel the need to prevent unauthorized mobility the switch prevents power from reaching the engine when it is switched off and secured with the red turn tab removed.
1.2 Power Supply: The power supply consists of three heavy-duty batteries – one for the engine and two deep-cycle 260amp hour batteries for the household. These are also located in the clothes-hanging closet and can be accessed by removing the lid from the bottom of the closet. The gas bottle for the refrigerator will have to be disconnected and removed as well as anything else on the closet “floor”. At the right had side of the battery compartment lid is a lifting edge. The lid can be lifted from the right, turned 90 degrees and removed.
1.2.1 Battery Fluid Level: As with all batteries is it is advisable to check the fluid levels periodically.
1.2.2 Compartment Ventilation Filter: The battery compartment is ventilated to prevent the build up of explosive gases. There is an extraction port high up on the outer wall in the back of the compartment. This extracts the air when the van is moving facilitated by the lower extraction vent on the outside of the van. The air intake is in the front of the compartment at floor level. It has a zigzag clip holding a filter in place for filtering the air as it comes into the compartment from under the van as it travels. The filter should be checked occasionally especially if driving over a lot of dusty roads. There is replacement filter material in the compartment if needed.
1.3 Fuses: Just above the battery compartment lid on the left hand side is a small fuse box with separate fuses for the table light, refrigerator exhaust fan, and main power to the other side of the van. The water pump and stereo also have their own extra inline fuses. The inverter also has its own fuses located in its base if I remember correctly.
1.4 Inverter: The inverter is also in the clothes-hanging closet mounted on the left hand wall. It is the big red unit. When it is switched on (switch on top) it will supply 110volts to electrical appliances up to 700watts (1400W surge). A stem blender and herb grinder are supplied. It can also be used to recharge phone and laptop, etc.
1.5 External 110volt supply: If you are stationary and using the electrics for more than 7 to 10 days you may plug into an external 110volt supply if available using the 100ft cord stored either under the driver’s seat or under the bed accessed through the back doors. Under the driver’s seat is a male plug connected to a short extension cord which leads to a dual power outlet in the top right side of the refrigerator enclosure. The refrigerator (12volt/gas/110volt) can be plugged into this but make sure the other sources of power (12volt or gas) are turned off.
1.6 12volt Sockets: In the refrigerator enclosure, in the back top right hand corner are two cigarette-lighter type 12volt power sockets. They may be used for anything that has a cigarette lighter type plug. The fuse for these sockets is also in the fuse box in the battery closet.
1.7 Battery Charger: A battery charger is supplied to top-up the household batteries if the van is stationary for some time. The charging clamps can be connected to the thick red and black leads going to the bottom of the inverter (which come directly from the household batteries). Make sure to attach red-to-red and black-to-black and ensure THEY DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER. The charger has smart technology and will show the level of charge and switch itself off when batteries are fully charged. This may take 24hrs or more if the batteries are very low. They have a large storage capacity.

2. Household Water Supply:
2.1 Water Storage Tank: The polyethylene tank is located in the front right closet. It has a 30gallon capacity and is filled through the filler cap at about chest height just inside the side door. A blue and white striped hose is located inside the bottom door of the closet and is intended for filling the water tank only. Below the water tank filler cap on the outside of the closet is a vertical tube indicating the water level in the tank so that it is easy to avoid overflowing while filling. The yellow markers are at ¼, ½, ¾ and full. The tank maybe flushed occasionally with a mild chlorine solution to dissolve algae build up.
2.1.1 Removing Water Tank: Should the need arise for the water tank to be removed the instructions for doing so are written on the front side of the tank. To access the tank remove the lower front panel of the closet containing it by removing the screws securing it on the outside. The panel incorporates the lower access door.
2.2 Water Pump: Also inside the lower access door next to the water tank is the 12volt water pump. The pump delivers 45psi at 2.8 gallons per minute. The on/off switch for the pump is located inside the closet on the right hand side. It is illuminated when on. It is important to SWITCH OFF the pump when leaving the van for any length of time or at night when sleeping because the high pressure pump would quickly flood the van should there be a failure in the plumbing left at constant 45psi pressure. The pump has an inline fuse for electrical overload protection and the electrical circuit supplying the pump is also fused in the small fuse box above the battery compartment.
2.3 Accumulator: Mounted just above the water pump is the accumulator. It “accumulates” pressure so that the pump doesn’t need to be activated every time with slightest use of water. The pressure in the accumulator can be altered through adding air through the pneumatic tyre-type valve mounted at the top. In 18 months of use I didn’t find a need to do this but that need may arise. The pressure in the accumulator should be below the water pump pressure, around 28psi as I recall (it should be on the accumulator label).
2.4 Water Delivery: The van has a uniquely flexible water usage capacity through the hose mounted behind the “kitchen sink”. By extracting the hose through the small hatch in the side of the water closet it can be used outside for showering, hosing off muddy feet or even dishes if the situation permits. The hose nozzle can be adjusted from misting to showering to full on hard stream. If the situation calls for dishes to be washed inside the hose should still be drawn through the small door but then only for a short length and brought forward to use in the kitchen sink. When using it in this way it is advisable to adjust the nozzle on the trigger mechanism to mist because the high pressure tends to be a little tricky to handle inside. But once you get used to the system at the right settings it is a delight to use.
2.5 Kitchen Sink: The sink is located in the fold down horizontal door in the water closet. To release the sink for emptying or outside use place both thumbs on the sink just above the hold down hooks and effortlessly lift the hooks with two fingers, one either side. The easiest way to wash dishes inside is to use the spray bottle mounted in the kitchen shelving to the left of the sink. The bottle should contain a strong but well diluted dish washing liquid. Spray the dirty dishes with the dishwashing solution; scrub the dishes and then just rinse off with the hose. When finished unlatch the sink and dispose of the water outside. It is a unique system but works well once familiar with it. Since the sink location is tailored to that particular size sink there is a spare sink in the storage compartment under the bed accessible through the back doors should the existing sink be damaged or lost.
2.6 Hose reel: The hose can be rewound with the handle mounted on the hose reel. When the hose is fully rewound be sure to leave the winding handle in the upmost position so that the sink can close over it when it’s folded up. It may be necessary to occasionally replace the “O” rings in the hose reel system if leakage becomes excessive. There is a drain in the bottom of the closet to allow for minor leakage and the bottom of the closet has been thoroughly waterproofed. Do not store anything in this lower closet that may be susceptible to water damage. Check occasionally to ensure the drain hasn’t become blocked.
NOTE: As with any water system in sustained subzero temperatures it should be emptied of water if left unused for any time to avoid burst water pipes or damage to the pump and accumulator.

3. House Sound System: This is a state of the art system with mp3 capability delivering 180W to the wall mounted speakers.
3.1 Powering Off: The house sound system is not wired through the ignition system so that it can be used without turning on the ignition. Because of this the system needs to have its stand-by mode turned off manually if you wish to turn off the illumination while sleeping or to prevent the batteries from being drained during long periods of non-use. To turn the system off completely keep the “off” button depressed until the lights go out – about 3 to 5 seconds. This can also be done with the remote control.
3.2 Operating Manual: The manual for operating the sound system can be found in the closet housing the sound system.
3.3 Theft Deterrent: As a theft deterrent the sound system face can be removed and stored in the security compartment.
4. Security Compartments: The van has two main security compartments; the “wedge” is convenient for daily use and the “safe” is more elaborate and secure for storing larger valuables (laptop, cameras, etc) when leaving the van for extended periods.
4.1 The Wedge: When the upper bunk is in the fully raised position (see 6.3 for instructions) the compartment in the top of the left hand wedge shaped closet can be accessed. To open this compartment press the triangular lid right at the back-most edge with your fingers only. The lid will tilt up at the front and can then be lifted out for accessing the compartment. Don’t be fooled by the dummy screws in the lid; they are just there to make it look immovable. If you wish extra security for this compartment you may place the upper bunk in the fully down position (see 5.1).
4.2 The Safe: The intention of this compartment is total stealth. Unless you know it’s there you would never find it. And if someone were to suspect its existence they would be hard pressed to access it. The compartment exists in the lower part of the bench storage unit behind the table.
To access the compartment remove the table from its specially made hinges and place aside (please see 5.2 & 5.3 to avoid damage). Next open the closet door to the right, the one above the refrigeration unit. In the lower front left corner is a wedge that needs to be pulled out. It looks like a continuation of the closet frame but on closer inspection you will see a separate section about six inches high. It has a finger recess in its outer edge. In damp conditions it may be a little tight but it has to be withdrawn towards the front of the van. Next, lift the horizontal lid of the side storage unit. In its upper front edge you will find another simpler wedge holding the front panel in its locked position. It is a longer strait piece mounted at an angle. Remove this wedge by wiggling up and down. With the two wedges out the front panel can now be removed by giving the top of the panel a good bump inward (depending on the weather) and releasing it from its locked position. With the top of the panel loose, reach into the horizontal lid compartment and lift the panel with the attached handle. The panel should move up into a groove so that the BOTTOM edge can be brought forward and out. The panel can then be brought down and lifted out.
It sounds like a lot but if you do it a few times it becomes quick and easy. Behind this panel you will find a steel, lockable strongbox bolted to the vehicle. It is large enough to store a laptop and to the right of it is a large space for bulky valuables or other storage if you wish. To replace the panel the whole procedure is reversed. Lift the panel into the top groove so that the bottom can be lifted up and then down into its locator groove. When the entire length of the bottom of the panel is well seated in its groove push the top of the panel towards you into its locking position from inside the storage compartment. The wedges can now be reinserted to secure the panel in its locked position.
Hint: If the panel should start sticking and become difficult to get in and out apply a very fine film of Vaseline to the top and bottom edges to prevent them from sticking. The same goes for the closet wedge. The wedge under the horizontal lid should never have a problem.

5. The Table:
5.1 Folding Up: The table is mounted on specially designed hinges to allow it to be raised up out of the way and be GENTLY lent against the window. If you do this it is advisable to open the window to such a degree that the table edge rests against the raised window frame.
5.2 Removing: The table can also be completely removed by raising it about 30 degrees allowing it to be lifted out of its hinges. It may be stored in the closet to the right if not being used (to make room for dance parties, etc : )
5.3 Hinge Care: Be sure to be gentle with the hinges when lifting and vigilant in engaging the hinges correctly when replacing the table because it exerts great leverage on the hinges and will easily bend them if they are not coupled and aligned correctly. The pins on the back of the hinge section on the table need to align and insert freely into the recesses in the hinge section of the sideboard. These pins prevent the hinges from unlocking when the table is down should someone lean on the edge past the support leg. Without these pins the table would tip.
5.4 Locking the Support Leg: The support leg has a dowel pin on the bottom edge that fits into a recess in the floor for extra stability. Ensure this recess stays free of debris.

6. Upper Bunk: The bunk is designed to have three positions: fully down, partially up and fully up.
6.1 Fully Down: This is obviously the position if the bunk is to be used for sleeping. It also needs to be in this position to access the “guest” closet at the foot of the bunk. This position also completely hides the “wedge” security compartment.
6.2 Partially Up: There are two sets of supports supplied for the bunk: one set short and one set long. The intention with the short supports is to enable the top bunk to be used for storage. They give the bunk just enough angle so that items remain secure while travelling but still make it easily accessible. It also leaves more comfortable head room below than with the bunk in the fully down position. The supports are placed under either end of the bunk between its outer edge and the bracket on the wall at the left and the bracket on the corner of the “guest” closet at the right.
6.3 Fully Up: Use the long supports as in 5.2 to keep the bunk at its highest setting. This can be done one at a time, as the bunk is robust enough to temporarily “hang” on one support. Note that the ends of the supports are angled to fit most securely one way in the brackets just in case of extremely bumpy roads. The bunk needs to be in the fully up position to access the “wedge” security compartment.

7. Kitchen Stove:
7.1 Cleaning: The stove can be lifted straight up and out of its foot holding recesses to facilitate easy cleaning. Be careful of the connection to the propane bottle. The stove can be carefully angled to facilitate cleaning underneath one end at a time while the hose is connected. To replace just align the rubber feet of the stove base with the recesses and press down firmly so its sits snugly.
7.2 Stove Top Cover: The cover on the stove allows for some extra bench space for food preparation. When stood upright behind the stove it also prevents cooking splatters from landing on the wall and the cover is easier to clean than the wall. Inside the stove cover are some soft rubber pads to stop rattles while driving so do not place the cover on the stove while it is still very hot.
7.3 Propane Access: The door housing the stove propane bottle is the only one with a latch that needs to be turned 90 degrees to open. This closet is sealed and vented to the outside through a floor vent behind the propane bottle.
7.4 Safety Precaution: As an added safety precaution turn the propane off at the valve on top of the propane bottle before sleeping or leaving the van for extended periods just in case the stove is not fully turned off or should spring a leak.

8. Drinking Water: The 30gallon tank and pressure outlet hose are intended for household use. If this tank is to be used for drinking and cooking water is should first be flushed with a mild chlorine solution, then rinsed and filled by using the water filter that attaches to the filler hose. The filter is located in the same compartment as the hose. The alternate system for drinking water is as follows:
8.1 Storage: The base of the clothes hanging closet has been designed to accept two full size (5 gallon) water bottles besides the propane bottle for the refrigerator.
8.2 Dispensing: A 2gallon rectangular container with faucet is supplied to fit on the side bunch beneath the plate holders. REMEMBER to secure this container before driving.

9. Chest Refrigerator: When set on high this unit can actually freeze anything resting against the cooling plate. It functions very well on 110volt power and propane but not as efficiently with the 12volt power supply.
9.1 Power Supply: Always ensure that only one mode of power is used at one time. IMPORTANT! Avoid sleeping in a totally closed van with the refrigerator on propane because it consumes oxygen. Allow for some ventilation.
9.1.1 Propane: In warm conditions a full propane bottle will last about six weeks 24/7. Connect the propane bottle in the right hand closet and turn on. With the refrigerator turned up to maximum hold the start button down and press the ignite button a few times while continuing to hold down the start button. After about a minute, to allow the safety cut-off valve at the flame source to heat up and stay open, release the start button. On the top shelf in the closet above there is a mirror on a telescopic stem. With the refrigerator brought all the way forward the flame at the bottom right hand backside may be checked. Or alternatively, after a few minutes if you cannot feel the heat coming out of the “chimney” at the right hand top back side, try the lighting procedure again.
9.1.2 110volt Power: Ensuring the propane supply is turned off, partially unwind the 110volt power cord from the back of the unit and plug it into the 110volt power outlet situated in the front top right hand corner of the refrigerator opening. Note that this will only work if 110volt power is supplied to the male plug under the driver’s seat.
9.1.3 12volt Power: Ensuring the propane supply is turned off, partially unwind the 12volt power cord from the back of the unit and plug into the lighter type socket in the back top right hand corner of the refrigerator opening. The unit doesn’t perform as well in this mode and also will deplete the household batteries in about 36 hours without recharging them. It is recommended to only use this supply in an emergency if you need to keep things cool for a number of hours while finding a new propane supply.
9.2 Refrigerator Platform: To increase space the refrigerator has been mounted on a retractable platform. While driving the platform should be retracted and locked in place with the strap provided. Do not use the refrigerator as a seat when it’s extended because the extra weight will damage the slides.
9.3 Exhaust Fan: The power supply to the refrigerator gives off quite a deal of heat. This is not a problem while driving because the upper vent on the outside of the van will extract the warm air as the van is moving. But when stationary in warm weather (and it is necessary to have the refrigerator retracted) the extraction fan should be switched on so heat does not build up in the enclosure and limit the unit’s efficiency. The switch for the extraction fan can be found on the left wall of the refrigerator recess. This fan is also fused in the small fuse box above the battery compartment.

10. Roof Hatch: The hatch in the roof provides ventilation and light. While driving the hatch may be propped up on the locking latches to provide flow-through ventilation. It also was made large enough to afford access to the roof. The roof has been specially reinforced so it can be used as an out door sleeping facility should the conditions suit. With a light camping mattress it can be used as a safe place to sleep under the stars. Easy access can be gained by using the small stepladder made for that purpose and located on the back of the cabin door.
11. Immobilizing Security Systems: the van has been fitted with a number of security features to prevent unauthorized use.
11.1 Battery Isolator Switch: Located on the front of the clothes hanging closet (driver’s side front closet) is a red handled switch. This switch isolates/disconnects the engine battery so that the engine cannot be started. The red handle can be removed once the switch has been turned to the isolator position and stored in the “wedge” compartment if you feel the situation warrants it.
11.2 Fuel Cut-off Switch: Located in the closet under the “wedge” compartment is the fuel cut-off switch. This switch operates a solenoid valve in the fuel line. When the switch is activated no fuel can flow to the engine. The switch is located towards the back of the closet and attached to the closet ceiling. If you should use this switch and the engine starts when you wish to drive off and then cuts out after briefly running (residual fuel in the carburettor) you have forgotten to open the fuel line valve with this switch. Use only when you feel the necessity.
11.3 Cabin Door: To ensure household security the cabin door, hinges and frame have been made of sturdy construction. The door has two heavy-duty latches. When these are engaged it would be very, very difficult to break into the van via this door. With the other security measures engaged the van would be completely immobile: no engine battery and no fuel.
11.4 Window shutters: When the van is to be left for a long period of time the shutters provided behind the passenger seat may be fitted over the windows for extra security. The shutters are fitted onto the outside of the windows by four corner bolts in each shutter. Remove the weather caps in the window frame boltholes on the outside of the van. A packet of bolts can be found in the closet above the stereo. With one or two bolts in the top of the shutter push the bolts through the holes and fix with the wing nuts on the inside. Do the same with the remaining bolts until all four corners are secure. Please note the shutters are window specific so just see which one fits where. There is an “UP” arrow mark on the inside of each shutter.

AND VERY IMPORTANT!
15. What to Remember Before Driving: Before driving off it is very important to secure all items to prevent damage or personal injury.
15.1 Side Door Step: Always remember to remove the side doorstep before driving off and lock it in place with it securing latch on the side of the stove bench. Even a small movement of the van will destroy the step so please be vigilant.
15.2 Drawer Latches: After picking up your cutlery scattered over the van floor a few times you will quickly learn not to forget to latch all drawers before driving off. The latch can be seen on the inside of the drawers next to the access hole. With the drawer closed reach into the hole with your index finger and push the latch up into the locator hole. THEN MAKE SURE THE LATCH IS TURNED TO LOCK INTO IT’S SIDE SUPPORT CRADLE so it cannot rattle free while driving.
15.3 Table Light: The light over the table has been mounted on a chain so it can be hitched to whatever height is desired for the circumstances. Before driving off hitch it to its highest link to stop it from swinging. When fully extended it WILL swing wildly.
15.4 Bench: The bench for use at the forward side of the table has been made with folding legs so it can be stored in the closet above the refrigerator. But an easier method is to just place the bench upside down, legs up, on the bed with a few inches braced against the stove bench. The cloth covering stops it from sliding and even so the extended legs wouldn’t get past the table in the event of a sudden stop.
15.5 Loose Items: Loose items such as the drinking water dispensing container, table bowl of fruit, nick-knacks, bags of groceries, etc can all be conveniently stored behind the upturned bench on the bed so they can be easily and quickly replaced in their positions at the next stop. Just make sure the faucet on the water dispenser is securely off!

Added note (1): When replacing or taking plates out of the plate holders on the side of the closet do so in the full bunch. Don’t try to pull out or replace the plates one at a time with force. You will break the holders and you will be left with plates rattling around in your closets. Because the holders are specifically made, should you break a plate or bowl there is a spare set either in the wedge closet under the “guest” closet or under the bed accessible from the rear.
Added Note (2): If you lose your keys and lock yourself out there is a black magnetic key holder box with a side door key and ignition key located on top of the fuel tank under the van. It means crawling under the van but it’s better than breaking and entering. Another spare black box set is held to the steel ceiling of the closet above the refrigerator.

HAPPY TRAILS!